[This blog post is from 2011.]

The main population of Jordan spans the western side of the country, from the north above Amman to the southwestern corner of Aqaba. I was intrigued, then, to hear about the eastern “desert castles.”

A few main roads cut though the northern part of the eastern desert, mainly driven by trucks transporting goods across the country and into Iraq and Saudi Arabia. Just off the road are remains of “desert castles” from the seventh to eighth centuries. They belonged to the Damascus-based Umayyad caliphs during the early days of Islam. No one is certain of the purpose of these buildings, but theories tend to lean towards leisure. 

There are no surviving defensive structures and the isolated location of them (they seem to be part of a chain from north of Damascus to Khirbet al-Mafjar/Hisham's Palace) favour them being more of retreats, caravanserais, farmhouses or lodges. 

Above all, they are stunning glimpses into the life and architecture of the seventh and eighth centuries, with surviving frescoes, carvings and mosaics. Below are photos from three of these “desert castles:” Qasr Al Azraq (Blue Fortress), Qasr Al-Harrana and Qusayr ‘Amra (a UNESCO World Heritage Site). 

Jordan book recommendations: Lonely Planet Jordan, The Rough Guide to Jordan, Insight Guides Jordan, and The Umayyads: The Rise of Islamic Art (Islamic Art in the Mediterranean).*

* The above links are to Amazon and are for your reference. I receive a small referral fee if you buy from Amazon. But I encourage you to buy books from any retailer, ideally your local bookstore!